2006 Massey Ferguson GC2310 Tractor Loader Backhoe
This web page contains a narrative log and
pictorial essay to maintain a 900 hour 2006
Ferguson GC2310 Tractor with a 22.5 hp 3-cylinder Iseki L3 1.1L (69
in3) diesel engine. This page is meant to document technical
data, and motivate
and encourage you as you try to fix your tractor.
have other pages about my 230,000
mile 1994 Suburu Legacy
with 2.2L. and 100,000 mile 2003
VW Jetta wagon 1.9L diesel, and 160,000 mile Dodge B250 van. I
appreciate your link back to
page so Google
thinks what I say is important.
the Model GC2310 comes standard with a backhoe and front loader instead
of 3-point hitch, you'll also hear it called "TLB" for "Tractor Loader
Backhoe". The PTO, 3-point lifters, and
tow-ball mount plate are all there, just covered by the backhoe.
also has two hydraulic loops installed after market - the rear loop is
controlled by a baby joystick to the left of the seat and the front
controlled by a click button switch on the bucket joystick. Lastly,
mine came with an operator cab to keep the operator more comfortable if
operating in cold / wet conditions.
12/7/18 WD wrote, "Just a big thank you!!"
March 2016 - Buying Manuals
first problem I worked after purchasing the tractor wasn't really a
problem. I just wanted owner, parts, and maintenance books.
AGCO (who purchased an owns the Massey Ferguson line) has an AGCO
on-line parts manual (login as guest to view books), so there's
really no reason to buy the paper parts manual.
I ordered 4 paper books, which immediately highlighted the fact that
there is a serial number break in the GC2310 series. They refer
to it as "N 25201", which means any tractor with that serial number or
after has a different parts catalog and a different operating
manual. To interpet that serial number, you have to add the
common letters. "JNA 25201" is what you would find on your
tractor. The tractor serial number is behind your left heel;
don't confuse that with the frame serial number or engine serial
number. My serial number is JRAxxxx, and because R comes after N,
I have the later model. An easy way to tell the difference is
that the newer serial numbers have a tachometer around the hour-meter.
Here are the paper book part numbers for a GC2310 with a serial number
JNA25201 or later. Check the AGCO parts web info if you want ot
confirm - be sure to choose the English lanuage if that is what you
want. If you order from AGCO, you can get DVD versions for a few
dollars cheaper with noticeably less shipping cost.
Operating Manual - 1449927M1, $17
Service Manual -
tractor 4283003M1, $29
Service Manual -
engine 4283035M2, $17
Parts Manual -
April 2016 - Fluids
After researching different
options, here's what I purchased to change expendables. These are
alternatives to the AGCO filter part
numbers. I like to do this up front so I know the service
intervals start from zero.
Filter - FRAM PH4967/4767, NAPA 1360, WIX 51360
Engine Oil - Shell Rotella T
semi-synthetic 15W-40 (white bottle)
Hydraulic Filter screw-on - AGCO
4265229M91 (no alternative found yet, $29)
Transmission and accessories
hydraulic fluid - Coastal
Multi-Trac in the green 5-gal bucket, $46
Front axle fluid - same as
transmission hydraulic fluid
Fuel filter - FRAM C7516 $15, NAPA 3262, WIX 33262
Air filter - NAPA 9691, WIX 49691
Engine coolant - commerical 50:50 mix from car parts store
May 2016 - Replace Axle
Steering Spindle Oil Seal
checked in the front axle fill cap on the left side and the internal
gearing looked wetted with oil, but there was no standing oil.
It's suppose to be filled up 1/2 the height of the axle, so I added
fluid. Within a day, it had leaked out the right steering spindle
onto the garage floor, so I knew that the seal needed to be replaced
(part number 4265156M91, $30.85 from Jacks Small Engines
Others have documented replacing the seal for a MF
1553 and MF
(dual-click on a Mac) any picture to see a
full-size view or download.
Overall work area. Right front
tire removed. You can use the front loader bucket to lift the tractor and then put a
jack stand under the frame. Final gear housing hydraulic fluid is
all the bolts loose, split the gear cover from the main housing. I
gently chiseled around the entire seam to break the silicone seal,
but later realized there are notches at the seam on the left and
right side (just out of this picture) to push in a screwdriver to wedge
inside the final gear
housing. The central bearing comes out with the gear. Look
carefully on top of the other little gear and you can see the snap
ring. After 870 hours of operation, there was silt collected
along the bottom of the cavity. Two pins support and allign the cover.
wheel gear with more silt
collected along the bottom edge (left of photo). Clean out silt
and clean the mating surface, but otherwise, there is no need to do
anything with these parts.
| You may be able to replace a spindle
seal without removing the 90 degree angle housing.
However, 4 bolts and an O-ring seal is pretty easy to take apart and
put together. I slips off the spline shaft easily once the four bolts
are removed and the tie-rod taper bolt is separated.
of the 90 degree gear housing. I cleaned 10 years and 870 hours of crud
off the metal surface and cleaned out the o-ring. 4 bolt holes and 2
alignment pin holes.
Drive shaft extending out ward.
It's loose and can be easily pulled or fall out; I left it sitting there. Notice the bad tie rod
ball I smeared some grease into. I ended up replacing these, too.
the snap ring by the gear and the final gear housing drops off the
spindle. You can see the oil seal sleeve on the spindle (shiney
remove the inner seal, I cut the metal band with a cold chisel and
pried it inward toward the center. Be careful not to damage
the metal surface of the shaft housing.
After removing the inner seal, I
cleaned the 90 degree and final housing and bearings with copious
amounts of solvent.
oil seal has two parts. This shows removal of the collar sleeve, which
was a tight rusty fit. Lots of prying with a screwdriver around and
installed the new collar by lubricating and carefully tapping around
and around the
shaft with a block of wood and re-applied vaseline to lubricate the
inner seal needs to be set below the surface of the metal, so I used a
flat faced punch that was sized to not crush the rubber flange. I went
around about 4-5 times before it was set all the way.
In order to
work on the front axle, you need the wheels off the ground. You
can use the bucket to lift up the front of the tractor and then put a
jack stand under the frame near the front axle. Use a 19mm socket
to remove the wheel studs and remove the wheel.
To open up the final gear housing, I worked a chisel around and around
the silicon seal. If you look carefully there are notches on the
left and right side in order to catch a screwdriver blade and pry open
the seal. Also remove the outer tie-rod taper bolt so the
final wheel housing can come totally off the tractor. Look
in the housing just above the small gear. You can see the snap
ring that must be strentched open and removed from its notch. My
snap ring pliers spread the ring barely far enough. The final
gear housing will drop away from the shaft.
You could replace the seal without removing the 90 degree gear
housing. It depends on the condition of the seal sleeve installed on the upper
part of the shaft. If it's really stuck or rusted into position,
you'll want to be able to work around all sides of it and that is way
easier if the 90 gear housing is not connected to the tractor.
So, remove the 90 degree housing if you want.
The replacement rubber seal is a 2-piece thing. You have to
remove one piece
from inside the lower wheel gear housing. You have to remove the
other collar piece from
the outside of the upper shaft arm. It's easiest to understand
how the fit together by looking at the new seal you purchased and pull
the two pieces apart and inspect them. Both of the pieces from my
old seal were very tightly
installed and I needed to use a chisel to break the metal part of the
oil seal before pushing / sliding / twisting them to remove them.
If you do this, be careful to not chisel or dent the metal underneath
the seal piece. After both pices are removed, clean everything up
with solvent and confirm you haven't
damaged the shaft or bearing housing.
Putting the new seal in place (both pieces) involves lubricating it and
pressing, or gently tapping it them into position. Work around and
around with little taps with a hammer and it goes on pretty
easily. Just be patient. Re-lubricate both halves of the
seal and put the wheel gear housing back onto the spindle. Hold
it in position while re-installing the snap ring.
To reconnect the final gear exterior cover, I scraped off all the old silicone
rubber, filed off one little blemish, and touched up the entire surface
with emery cloth. I cleaned everything with gasoline and
then rinsed the surface with acetone to remove any oily residue.
I applied silicone rubber as a gasket and re-assembled it.
I measured the bolts as 9 mm in diameter. The service manual
identifies torques for only 8 mm or 10 mm bolts. I used the high
end of 8 mm as my target and torqued everything to 20 ft lbs. If
you pulled off the 90 degree gear housing, there is no way to get a
torque wrench on the bolt heads. I used a 1' long open end box
wrench and pulled the wrench with a 20' fish scale in order to get 20
ft lb of torque.
put hydraulic fluid into the right gear housing through the top bolt
hole in case there was
an air bubble trap somewhere, and then added more in the left axle fill
cap up to a half-filled axle. Side note - after about a day of
work, I noticed the left spindle was starting to seep oil out.
Uggh.. I think I need to go replace the other seal, too. I think
the right leak was keeping the fluid level low enough to not affect the
left side, but with the right side fixed, the fluid level stays high
enough to make the left leak visible. I will have to order
another seal and repeat in the near future.
May 2016 - Replace Steering
steering rod end had no rubber boot on the inner ball joint and the
ball and joint were totally rusted and very loose. The left one
was badly cracked and the inner ball joint was rusty and loose. I
wondered if I could operate the tractor this way until one of the ball
joints just popped out. For a car, this would be bad because the
toe-in would wander around and it would probably make bad rattling
noises when on the road and would probably wear out the front tires
really quickly. However, a tractor is bouncing around on uneven
loose surface most of its life so I'm not sure the tires would ever
know the difference.
I decided to buy new ball joints so as to not let little maintenance
items build up. Turns out you can't buy just the inner ball joint
any more. That part has been superceded by another part, which
has been superceded by another part. The final part (7069209M91,
$73) is an aggregate kit that includes everything outboard of steering
rod out to the tie rod tapered bolt. It does not include the big
flat washer where the rod end screws into the hydraulic piston and it
does not include a lock washer or castle nut for the tapered bolt.
Spoiler alert: the cotter pins and 10mm-1.25 castle bolts on the
tapered bolt were very rusty. I ended up having to get new of
both. The hardware store sold a package of 100+ miscellaneous
cotter pins that notably did not have the one size I needed (3/32"
diameter an inch or longer), so I drove back and bought the package of
the exact size. The castle bolt was made out of a normal grade
(hardness) nut by cutting slots with a cutoff wheel grinder. I
will have to watch these and see if the nuts are too soft, or loosen.
When removing the tie rod, if the taper bolt is stuck tight, consider
using an air chisel. No! don't hit any tractor part with an air
chisel. Back the bolt off until it's flush with the end of the
bolt. Then use a thick aluminum bar or plate between the nut and
bolt and the air chisel. The softer aluminum takes the hammer
blows and transfers the impacts to loosen the bolt without damaging the
bolt or nut. This method has reliably removed tie rod end bolts
in every vehicle I've tried it with.
The tie rod ends screw into the ends of the hydraulic actuating rod,
separated with a large flat washer that prevents the tie rod from
crushing in against the oil seal when the steering wheel is turned hard
left or right. In order to screw / unscrew these connections you
have to be able to grab the rod ends and the rods with a wrench and
turn about 20 ft lbs. The flat sections provided to do this are
very narrow, so I had to grind down my tools to make them
fit. Two "special" tools are required:
narrow 19 mm open end box wrench for the flats on the stainless steel
hydraulic drive rod. A wrench of this size was not economically
available alone, so I picked up an entire set of metric wrenches for $9
from Harbor Freight. I'm not sure their tools are hard or
accurate enough for regular commercial use, but for an open end box
wrench that will get ground down and used once every 3 years, I
appreciated the lower price.
A narrow 28 mm
open end box wrench for flats on the tie rod ends. I could not
find a 28 mm wrench for sale other than in a $50 kits, so I used a 10"
crescent wrench, which opened jaws just enough to fit. I picked
up a $6 version from Harbor Freight because I had to grind down the
width of the jaws to fit onto the narrow flats of the tie rod ends, and
didn't want to grind on my main shop tools.
Because there was no rubber left on the old rod ends, I could use a
fat-jaw pipe wrench to take them apart. Turning in opposite directions,
one would let loose first. Luckily the left one came off first,
exposing the flats on the end of the stainless rod. I did not
have to grind down the thickness of my 19 mm wrench. To unscrew
the right tie rod, I used a pipe wrench while holding the stainless rod
on the other end with the 19 mm wrench.
To re-install the tie rod ends into the stainless steel rod, I couldn't
use a pipe wrench because it would have crushed the rubber seal.
Instead, I used the narrow-jaw cresent wrench to fit over the tie rod
ends without interfering with the big flat washer. I put the
right rod end on first using the stock 19 mm wrench. To install
the left one, I had to use the narrow 19 mm open end box wrench to not
interfere with the big flat washer. I pushed what felt like about 20
pounds on the end of my approximately 1 foot long wrenchs.
put the taper
bolt castle nut back on to 20 flt lbs with a torque wrench and then
only enough to slip a cotter pin through the first available nut slot.
I preset toe-in by counting tie rod end thread grooves on the old rod
ends. Mine had 3-1/2 threads exposed on each side. After
putting the tires back on the tracter, I checked alignment for the
spec'd 2-6 mm of toe in (front of tires closer together than the rear
of the tires). Nothing fancy, just a tape measure held against
the tire surface at mid-axle height measured between two 2x4 sections
held against the outside of the tires (someone helped me on the other
side of the tractor). I found about 1 mm of toe in with weight
off the front wheels. I will check and adjust again after the
hardware has settled for a week or so.
Summer 2017 - Removed the
prior year, I cut down a big leaning tree. I did use the backhoe
to try digging out some of the stump, but didn't get very far.
All winter and spring the stump stayed in the backyard and had a moat
around it whenever it rained. I knew I'd have to get it out,
eventally. The tractor in the picture is 4' wide. The stump is
slightly wider and taller. It was a BIG stump.
At first I was coming at the stump head on with the backhoe and digging
from several positions around the stump. I just couldn't get the
depth required. I ended up modifying my technique by digging deep
4' trenches on the left and right side of the stump instead of in front
of it. I did this from 4 positions around the stump.
Very soon I had a pillar of dirt in a deep hole. When I stood in it, I
was up to my chest in dirt. I tried pulling the stump and dirt
pillar over using a full-size van, but the rear wheel just spun in the
grass. I hooked up a chain to the tractor on the lowest point
below the rear wheel axle (for leverage) and in 4WD and tugged and
relaxed over and over - maybe 20 times and finally the pillar of dirt
tipped over, but there was no way I could pull or lift or drag it out of the
hole. If I released tension, it immediately tipped back.
I used a log about 8" in diameter to block the stump, as shown in the
picture. I put a little dirt under the stump and then removed th
e log. Tthen I pulled the
stump over the other way pulling from the other side, and added a few
shovels of dirt under the stump on that side. After
about 15 back and forth pulls, taking several hours, I slowly put more
and more dirt under the stump until it was all the way out of the
hole--or more accurately, the hole had been slowly filled in under the
stump. I tried pushing or lifting it and that was a total
no-go. The stump is not moving. We'll burn spare sticks and
brush under the stump for several months -- maybe even into next
year. But eventually it will be gone. What's interesting is
that the very heavy clay dirt is cooked by the fire and turned into
firebrick. Every once in a while I go chip some off and do
another fire. Note - finally burned it all gone in November of 2018.
May 2018 - Left Front
Steering oil seal
I need another
steering shaft seal
(4265156M91). I'll order from McFarlane Mfg, Saulk City,
WI. JacksSmallEngines.com said they don't sell
Massey parts any more).
When the parts arrived, this worked the same as the right shaft seal documented above. However, I had a lot
more trouble getting the snap ring back in place. One reader
recommended channel lock snap ring pliers with a 2" throat.
Available from Lowe's for just over $20. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CHANNELLOCK-8-in-Automotive-Snap-Ring-Pliers/50424410.
I actually have a pair of those and they didn't work for me. I
finally borrowed new tips from a friend, and that did the trick.
Mine had gotten worn and beveled and the snap rings kept sliding
off. Get new tips!
June 2018 - Hydraulic Hose
As I backed the
tractor into parking, I noticed a steady drip of hydraulic fluid coming
from the front left side. Turns out the cylinder end of the "bucket
down" line on the left side was oozing fluid out between the hose and
the crimp of the connector. Uh.. time to replace the short
flexible section of hose.
The AGCO parts diagram on line shows it as a 1/4" hose 13" long, part
number 71515711. I
unscrewed the 1/4
I.D. hydraulic line from the cylinder side and
found a male SAE O-ring Boss (a.k.a. ORB) fitting with threads that
measure 0.555" across. This is the type with the O-ring around
the collar, not "flat face" where the O-ring is on the face end of the
threaded part. On the other end, the hose disconnected
from the metal tubing, revealing a JIC female connector on the hose
with 0.509" I.D. on the female thread. The JIC
male threads on the metal tubing measured 0.559" O.D. across the
threads. Marking a pen-line on a piece of paper and a protractor
confirmed the 37 deg angle of a JIC connector (not a 45 deg JIC or 30
deg Japanese JIS).
Now I needed to match my measurements against the industry standard
options. Checking a hydraulic
fitting chart, I found
So.. I have "SAE-6" and "JIC-6" size connectors.
- JIC SAE-6
size male threads are 0.5625" O.D., with the closest
alternative 0.50" and 0.75". JIC female SAE-6 threads are
I.D. with the closest alternative 0.46" or 0.60". Since I
measured 0.559" and 0.509" , my guess is they are SAE-6 with 9/16-18
- ORB-6 size
male threads are the same as SAE-6 and I measured
0.555". Choices are 9/16" (0.5625") or the metric connector
that looks almost identical which is M14x1.5, or 0.5512". Since
the one end is SAE JIC, I'm betting the other end is not metric.
The hose is a
3000 PSI hose with an outside dimension of 0.50" and a
length of 13.25" (end of metal connector to end of metal
connecto). I think it's 1/4" SAE 100R17 single-wire hose with a
2" minimum bend radius. Alternately, fatter O.D. 1/4" SAE 100R16
work, with an O.D. of 0.57" and a bend radius of 2" and working
pressure of 5800 psi. The 100R16 doesn't seem to be much fatter,
but when it's squeezed into various body channels of the tractor, the
size does matter. On the backhoe, I expect the narrower 100R17 is
required to get all the hoses packed in next to each other.
I called around to price a replacement.
I found torque
specifications for hydraulic lines and put the adapter on the end of
those. I connected the ORB end to the tractor first because the
entire hose has to rotate while tightening the connector; 24-26 ft lb.
On the JIC side (connected to the cylinder), the nut allows me to
tighten the connection while holding the hose untwisted; 17-19 ft lbs.
Auto Parts doesn't make hydraulic lines.
Small Engine again shows that they do carry Massey Ferguson
parts. $31.25 after
Auto Parts referred me to a sister store in a nearby city and they
priced it out at $34.73 before
- I priced
out the assembly at discounthydraulichose.com and it came out to $29.37 after shipping.
- I checked
SurplusCenter.com and they only have stock hose lengths, but the 12"
was close. Turns out I could buy a 12" 100R17 hose with 1/4" NPT
fittings each end (916-1412), and a 1/4" NPT female - ORB male adapter
and a 1/4" NPT female - JIC female connector (9-6506-6-4). It
probably would add up to about 13-1/4". Total price after
shipping came out to $20.45.
One of the adapters had a 4-month backorder delay.
- Instead of
the 4 month back order, at SurplusCenter, I found the 0.070" fatter
100R16 2-wire hose
with different end connectors: female JIC-6 connectors (921-2212). Then all I needed was a
single male JIC to male ORB adapter (9-6400-6-6). I accepted the fater 100R16 hose. Total price was $18.40 shipped.
Everything checked out fine. The only caution issue is that with
an adapter on the end adding up to the specified 13" length, the
non-bendable end of the hose is longer. That doesn't matter for a
mostly straight run installation. For a "U" shaped installation like
the loader-up hose, this probably wouldn't matter, either In this
case, however, the loader-down "S" shaped installation makes the "S"
stretch more than I like because the flexible rubber part of the 13" is
shorter. In reality, the hose I removed was really 13-1/2"
anyhow. Testing the loader full up and full down looks like
it will work - it just pulls harder sideways than I would like at the
full loader-up position.
Two months later, the bucket-up end of the same cylinder started
fluid right through cracks in the hose. I should have purchased
two! Also, the "un-curl" hose on the backhoe bucket is starting
to ooze fluid at the top bend of the arm. I need another 13" hose
and a 128" hose. Both have ORB at the cylinder end. The
bucket-up needs JIC like the one I just did. The backhoe bucket
looks like it terminates with ORB at the operator control block, too.
What to do with your tractor
Here are a few
projects I've used the tractor for.
- Dig and
pull tree stumps and level yard dirt. Now,
each normal sized stump removal is about 1 hour (with tractor and axe)
instead of 1
day with a shovel and axe.
- Backhoe out
bamboo weed patch and scoop out tangly weeds with the bucket.
- Build a 6'
privacy mound of dirt.
- Lift and
move rail road ties and 10' sections of tree trunks. Bucket and
backhoe have chain hooks welded on which have been very helpful.
bucket about 6' high is a platform for me to stand on to reach tree
trim branches. This worked, but I realize it's unsafe to do
so. Even with no power, moving or bumping the bucket control
on the bucket with move the bucket abruptly and send you tumbling!
on tall trees and large branches as I cut them down (so the tree falls
the correct direction). I learned that the tractor can pull
pretty hard when the pull direction is below the drive axle of the rear
tires. It cracked off one 8" diameter branch that was 1/2
cut through. Now, I am careful to cut bark all around now so it
tear back if the branch snaps off early. However, remember "Gravity
always wins". Pulling high on a tree helps it fall the right way,
but if it's leaning or angled, planning to pull it quickly as it comes
loose will NOT work. Better to tie up a restraining rope so that
the trunk or limb's own weight will swing it over where you want it.
- Snow shovel the driveway with the front loader. Works best when snow is more than 1" otherwise, it's not worth the trouble.
raised dirt gardens from against the house. Nip and lift rail
road ties out of position. Without teeth on the bucket, I
can't dig with it very well, so I backhoe all the dirt first and then
the bucket scoops the loose dirt easily.
- With a
hooked chain, 2 or 3 wraps around a vertical reebar lets the front bucket pull the
rebar out of the ground.
- Carry cut
firewood and drop it into a pile for splitting. Of note, not only
is the transport much easier but I don't UNload the logs now - I just
the slope of the yard where water used to collect.
- Use the
backhoe to strip 2" thick sections of grass and replant the grass in
- Dig out a
drainage ditch across the front of the property, and free debris from
around the culverts.
- Moving dirt
for therapy after a rough day at work, trying to make a tall mound.
skills to my friends and family.
- Dig bricks
and stones out of old paved patio area and leveled dirt for concrete.
large limestone slabs from local farm lands to make a patio area - the
farmers like to have the rocks out of their fields, too.
- Dig off 2"
of dirt to make way for a stone walk-way.
- Carry tools
in the bucket to a job site so I can make only one trip.
- Backhoe out
difficult honey suckle roots and clear area to smooth and level by back
scraping with the bucket.
- Air chisel
old bricks and concrete in the bucket and then all the chips and dust
can be easily dumped to level my driveway without scooping/shoveling
up the shards.
- Dig out
around 4x4 concrete anchors and then use a chain on the bucket to pull
the old concrete and wood out of the ground.
© 2018 Brian Mork. Please
contact me using the copyright link prior to commercial use, or
distribution in a commercial context.